In
pagan culture, the egg signified the rebirth of the earth during
spring. Christians adopted this symbol for the death and resurrection
of Jesus Christ, allegedly having occurred in early spring. Eastern
Christianity has created several myths regarding the connection between
the egg and the Easter story, including a claim that Mary Magdalene
brought eggs to share at the tomb of Jesus, which turned bright red
when she saw that Christ had risen.
With all of these
associations with life and the earth, it only makes sense that the eggs
that we dye for our baskets, egg hunts and rolls be good for the earth
and respect life. To do this, we need to be educated consumers and
understand the labeling on the cartons.
Sustainable EggsThree separate certifying systems have been created by egg producers.
Certified Organic:
This is the only certification that is regulated by the government. To
earn it, a farmer must pass an inspection showing that the eggs came
from hens that eat an antibiotic-free, 100% organic diet, and are
allowed access to the outdoors and sunlight. What it does not require
is a certain barn or shed size or limit on the amount chickens housed
inside such facilities. It also does not require that the chickens
spend any time outdoors and specifically allows a farmer to temporarily
confine his hens for a variety of reasons, with no definition of the
term "temporarily." It does, however, require certain humane
limitations including that a bird must be anesthetized prior to
de-beaking, a common practice in egg farming.
Certified Humane:
This certification is regulated by Humane Farm Animal Care
and is concerned less with what the birds eat than with how they are
treated. Hens must eat a "wholesome" and "nutritious" diet, they may
only receive antibiotics in the case of disease. The certification
requires that the hens have "sufficient space, shelter and gentle
handling to limit stress." In Illinois,
Phil's Fresh Eggs has been Certified Humane under this system.
To find other producers, visit Humane Farm Animal Care's website.
Organic Valley may not be "Certified Humane," on its website, it states its promise to the consumer that its eggs have been:
"Produced
on family farms in harmony with nature without antibiotics, synthetic
hormones or pesticides. Our hens are raised humanely and given
certified organic feed—never any animal by-products—and range freely
outdoors."
A note on hormones: a hormone-free claim is
a bit of a non-sequitur given that hormones are never given to hens
being grown for laying eggs or during the egg-laying period unless sick.
The United Egg Producers Certification:
This is quite a dodgy "certification." According to Marion Nestle, the
certification "merely attests that a company gives food and water to
its caged hens." Unsurprisingly, a large majority of industrial egg
producers have received this certification.
The website is chock full of double speak.
On the home page, we see a wholesome young family on their bucolic
farm. There is a large section called Myth v. Fact. My favorite myth v.
fact is the first:
Myth: Farmers only care about profit.
Fact:
U.S. egg farmers are committed to the humane and ethical treatment of
animals. Many of the farms are family-owned and operated.
While
I'm sure that majority of family farmers treat their hens humanely,
having recently watched
HBO's "Death on a Family Farm," family-owned
and operated can not necessarily be equated with humane treatment.
A
Note on De-beaking: It's important to note that none of the
certifications prohibit de-beaking, though the Certified Organic and
Humane standards do require that the birds be anaesthetized during the
procedure. Birds are de-beaked to prevent the aggressive behavior that
is almost inevitable in close quarters. In the "
The Ethics of What We Eat
,"
Peter Singer identifies a handful of farmers who do not de-beak their
birds. I have emailed several of the egg producers who sell locally at
our farmers market to find out their practices and will report back
with what I learn.
Sustainable Egg DyingEver
since my son was born 5 years ago, we've coloring our eggs naturally.
What we've done is to use the by-products of our home cooking that
would otherwise be destined for the garbage or the compost bin. For
example, yellow onion skins create a lovely beige shade, red, a
purplish one. I'll blanch spinach, a traditional menu item on Maundy
Thursday, for green. Boil some beets for red. Leftover coffee stains
not your teeth for brown. The only virgin ingredients that I use are
dried spices - really, how many of you are going to use up that entire
jar or turmeric? I also have a huge jar of tomato powder that is past
its prime (a donation from the very generous
Spice House for a
Purple Asparagus
project) that when combined with vinegar turns up orange. When using
spices, boil water to fill a bowl just large enough to hold an egg or
two and add a tablespoon or more or the desired spice with a bit of
vinegar. But my all time favorite natural egg dye? Red wine. Not only
does it color the egg, but it gives it a sparkly sheen - I've always
assumed that it's the sulfites. The best part? When you're egg is done,
it's cocktail time.
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Melissa Graham is
a former attorney and chef and owner of Monogramme Events & Catering, a
boutique catering company specializing in seasonal and sustainable cuisine.
She's also president and founder of Purple Asparagus, a non-profit
dedicated to bringing families back to the table by promoting and enjoying all
the things associated with good eating. When she’s not in the kitchen or the classroom,
you can often find
Melissa shopping at the Green City Market where she serves as the membership
chair.
